Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Dharamsala and McLEOD

McLEODGANJ - TRIUND (2975m) - LAHESH CAVE (3350m) - INDRAHAR PASS (4350m) - CHATTA PARAO - KWARSI (2730m) - HILLING - CHOLI

Location: Indrahar Pass lies across the Dhauladhar Range Between Kangra and Chamba Districts.

Indrahar Pass is the most frequently used pass to cross the Dauladhar Range. (Indrahar is also know as Laka or Kwarsi)

The trek is well marked.

Options from One Day trek to two to five days trek.

One Day Option:

Trek from McLEODGANJ to Triund and back; around three to four hours one way.

Two to Three Days: McLEODGANJ TO Indrahar Pass

or do the complete stretch.




McLEODGANJ - Triund (Day One or One Day trek)
Distance 9 KM Times 3 to 4 hours
Level Easy

You have option of driving the first 2KM to Dharamkot. But it is recomended to walk this beautiful stretch.  Chances are that you may also spot mamals like Leopard, or Wild Goats (PIJ) during this trek; or event Monal.

Galu Devi (2130m) at Dharamkot has a small temple and a water point. From here the route ascends north east through forest having Oak and rhododendrons. Triund is famous for its views, and is a popular walk with visitors to Dharamshala and McLEODGANJ. The well-trodden route is therefore, peperred with few shops and dhabhas (between spring to winter).

From Triund you can get a grand view of Mun (4,610m), Slab (4,507m), Rifle Horn and Arthur's Seat up in the Dhauladhar and the wide sweep of the valley below. It also a great place for birdwatchers. There is a source of water near Triund; you have a walk a km down a steep route that can be slippery during and post monsoon.

There is no permenant habitation at Triund but a Forest Rest House, located on the subsidary ridge of the Dhauladhar, can be booked in Dharamsala.

Triund - Lahesh Cave (Day 2)

Distance 6 KM Time 3 hours
Level Easy

This is a moderate hike starting behind the Forest Rest House in the North wards direction with initial hour and half route having a good tree cover. (Laka Got) (3,350m), a small grassy camping groiund marked by a trekking shelter in teh ruined state. From here, the trail turns to the right (north-east), goes up a small ridge and then turns to the left (west) to climb up north to reach (Lakesh Cave) (3,500m), a natural rock shelter that can house 20 people. It takes less than an hour to reach the cave from Laka Got.

An added attraction near the cave is a small waterfall. There are a number of other huge boulders that can serve as emergancy shelter for four to five people. But it is easy to miss the cave without a guide.

Lahesh Cave - Chhata Parao Via Indrahar Pass (Day Three)

Distance 7 KM Time 6 to 8 hours
Level: Moderate

Start Fresh early morning; a steady climb can bring to the pass in 3 to 4 hours. The trail lies up a steep rock face ascending north over steps both natural and man made. The narrow width is rendered somewhat hazardous in the rains a numerous streams course down the face. Post-monsoon, most of these go dry and present no difficulty. In general, it is advisable to cross the pass after midday as the weather on this pass is unpredictable and visibility can reduce drastically in short time. It's best to wait out such periods because it is very easy to lose one's way in such conditions.

A small rock temple embedded with trishul marks the Indrahar pass. Local travellers and Gaddis usually stop to pray for safe crossing. In clear weather, both the Pir Panjal and the Great Himalayan Ranges are visible from the top, The view of the Mani-mahesh Kailash is particularly rewarding after the stiff climb.

The descent to Chhata Parao, a small camping spot with a rock shelter (3,700 m), is taxing because it's along a trail obscured by thick grass. From the top the trail goes in west direction (to your left) in easy steep steps throught the rocks, for a hundred feet, till you have to turn further left after around 100 feet after going further down then you take a right turn and dropping steeply north into Chatta Parao. The trail lies on the left side of the gully, formed by the glaciers and avalance cones below the pass.

After walking down for two more hours another vertical rock face on the right side is to be negotiated. The local Gaddi Shepherds have cut rock face to make it slightly easier to cross it. the trail enters  pastures and huge rock overhang marks the Chhata Parao Campsite; there is plenty of space here to pitch tents.

On the left of Indrahar Pass are few glacial lakes, if you are lucky you may also spot bears here.

The Larger Nag Dal is located further on the left of the pass. Tucked away in the niche on the barren slopes, it is not visible from the trail and the services of local guide is required to reach it; this lake remains frozen till mid-july.

Chhata Parao-Kwarsi (Day Four)

Distance 14 KM Time 4 to 6 Hours
Level Moderate

The  path down follows the Chhata Nallah, staying on its left side for a few kilometers, then descending steeply to cross Chhata Nallah over a wooden bridge. This is an easier crossing than the small streams encountered earlier. The trail climbs to the left and crosses a landslip area before descending gradually to a side stream crossed on a trangari (wooden log bridge). From here, the track turns left and a steep ascend through conifer forest leads to a ridge offering the first view of Kwarsi Village. The path descends for nearly half an hour to reach the Trekker's Hut and then turns right to enter the village.

The route after Chhata is well marked but has its hazards. (in May snow hollows can be dangerous) in monsoon there is a very thick vegetation in this region.

Kwarsi (2,730m) is a set admist fine groves of deodar and blue pine. It has a few shops and a nag temple. Kwarsi rooftops are a pleasing sight in autumn with corn cobs, tomatoes and grass spread out to dry for winter months.

Stay: There is Trekker's Hut and a Forest Rest House. The rest house is located beyond the village (Not been used for many years).

Kwarsi - Hilling and Choli (Day 5)

Distance 14 KM Time 4 to 6 Hours
Level Easy

There is a mule patch from Kwarsi to Hilling Village has its own set of challenges. After the village, the bridle path crosses the fields and then drops down left through a thick deodar forest. After about 30 minutes a 100 meter stretch cut into the rock-face and can present problems for the faint hearted: the one-foot wide patch hangs over a precipitous drop! the descent is steep till Hikkim Nallah is crossed over a permanent wooden footbridge. Thereafter the track gradual (mostly on the road), passing throught Hilling and Lamu villages to Choli. Hilling has been connected by a jeep road to Choli. However, not many vehicles ply on this section. so make your arrangements in advance or be ready to backpack..